5989 O.gomez Nessa
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5989 O.gomez Nessa

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Olivier GOMEZ

Nessa

In the shade of the chestnut trees

Nessa

Perched high above the Reginu Valley, Nesce marks the transition between the cultivated lands of the plain and the first hills of the hinterland, much like its neighbour Filicetu. Chestnut and olive trees and ancient paths surround this small village, whose houses cluster around the church of San Ghjiseppu – Saint Joseph. Its history is told as much through its painted doors as through the remains of a centuries-old chapel. Nesce is also associated with the name of one of the great intellectual figures of 18th-century Corsica: Don Gregorio Salvini.

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Getting there

Colourful doors in San Petru

As you wander through the narrow streets, your gaze is drawn to a remarkable collection of old doors in deep red hues. Adorned with painted panels, wrought ironwork and granite frames, they bear witness to the exceptional attention to detail that has gone into the village’s architecture.

Set apart from the houses, the remains of the San Petru di Nesce chapel – believed to date from the 9th century and to have served as a parish church until the end of the 18th century – can be seen in the cemetery. Damaged 15th-century frescoes remain in the building’s apse. They still reveal a highly unusual depiction: women kneeling beneath the Virgin’s mantle, evidence of an ancient women’s confraternity – e Pisochje.

All around, the shade of the chestnut trees and the winding old paths serve as a reminder of the bond that unites the village with its mountain.

Don Gregorio Salvini

Born in Nesce in 1696, Don Gregorio Salvini epitomised the spirit of independence in the Balagne. A priest, doctor of law and close associate of Pasquale Paoli, in 1758 he published the *Giustificazione della Rivoluzione di Corsica*, a major treatise defending his island’s cause against the Republic of Genoa. He also played an active role in the founding of Corsica’s first university.

This man of intellect was also a village builder. It was on his initiative that the present-day Church of San Ghjiseppu was built between 1753 and 1783; he supervised the construction until he was laid to rest there in 1789. The building, which houses a ‘Virgin of the Rosary’ attributed to Giovan Battista Moro, is currently undergoing careful restoration – a way of preserving the legacy of the man who chose to bind his destiny to his native land.