Page 30 8266 O.gomez Monticello 1
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Page 30 8266 O.gomez Monticello 1

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Olivier GOMEZ

Monticello

On the hills

Monticello

From its hilltop, Munticellu – Monticello looks out over the horizon and the Gulf of L’Isula – L’Ile-Rousse. Whilst the old town centre is neatly clustered around the Church of San Sebastianu, the area is not confined to the ancient vaults: on one side, it slopes down to the rocks of Saleccia and, on the other, opens out onto the Reginu Valley. A vast landscape where the memory of Paoli meets the bustling rhythm of a vibrant village.

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  • Monticello
Getting there

Stone shelter

Situated at an altitude of 218 metres, the village’s old houses form the compact silhouette of villages of yesteryear, built for protection, centred around the parish church of San Sebastianu. Built in the early 17th century, it houses the 1710 painting *The Martyrdom of Saint Sebastian*, which is listed as a Historic Monument.

A short walk away, the Confraternity of San Carlo Borromeo, built in 1697, houses a precious Italian-Corsican organ and a painting by Giacomo Grandi. Further up, the Chapel of San Francescu dominates the scene with its 18th-century dome. It is here that the San Roccu – Saint Roch – festival takes place every 16 August, featuring a procession, the blessing of the horses and the traditional sharing of chickpea soup.

From the scrubland to the coastal fringe

The municipality stretches down to the Mediterranean along a rugged coastline, marked by A Punta di Palumbara, Cala d’Olivu and the Saleccia cove. On the headland, the remains of a Genoese tower dating from 1570 are a reminder of the days when the Balanine coast had to keep watch over the open sea.

Close by, Saleccia Park offers a botanical interpretation of the landscape. Spanning seven hectares by the sea, this ‘Jardin Remarquable’ brings together olive trees, maquis and Mediterranean flora. A moment of respite that gracefully demonstrates that the maquis, too, possesses its own sense of harmony. It is within this natural world that wellbeing, alternative medicine, the circus arts and the Tu Si short film festival have found their place.

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Vitality through the seasons

Monticellu does not merely look back on its past. On the hillside, the San Francescu – Saint François – complex boasts a range of facilities (swimming pool, tennis, padel, football pitch), complemented by an equestrian centre.

Cultural and communitylife maintains a steady pace: the Monticello and BalagneOrgan Festivals bring historic instruments to life every summer, whilstI Scontri di U Munticellu – the Munticellu Festival – brings the village to life with talks and exhibitions.

This sense of rootedness is also embodied through the craft and labour of working the land. AtAtellu AV, olive wood – an iconic material of the Balagne – is delicately fashioned into contemporary jewellery. A little further on, at a place called Chialza, François Fondacci ’s farm continues the tradition of producing farmhouse cheese andBrocciu AOP.

Munticellu and Paoli

As Paoli’s mother, Dionisia, was originally from the village, her son often stayed there. This house in Balagne – which still stands today – served as a refuge for him. From this vantage point, he kept watch over the coast and organised the defence against the Genoese. It was also here that he conceived the idea of founding L’Isula – L’Ile-Rousse – in 1758, with the aim of providing Corsica with an independent port. Thus, a plaque affixed to the family home still serves as a reminder that it was at Munticellu that part of the island’s destiny was shaped.