The sleepy villages

In Lisula, and more generally throughout Balagne, certain walking routes lead to unique places where time seems to stand still – to ancient villages that were once inhabited but are now deserted. These sites, with their stones worn smooth by the passage of time, still bear witness to past ways of life and the region’s former layout. Walking along the paths leading to the villages of Spelonche, Giustiniani, Casenove or Occi reveals landscapes shaped by the people who travelled them long before us. It is a bit like exploring an open-air attic brimming with secrets and treasures waiting to be discovered, far from the hustle and bustle of the world and inhabited areas.

1. Giustiniani

From the village of Speloncato, the path winds down through the Reginu valley towards the ruins of the ancient village of Giustiniani, which was inhabited from Neolithic times right through to the Middle Ages. The route is dotted with dry-stone walls, fountains and old sheepfolds – stazzi – which quietly bear witness to traditional agricultural and pastoral practices. In the shade of chestnut trees and ancient olive groves, this timeless site features the remains of Roman baths – i bagni. You can also catch a glimpse of the tower of a former manor house, as well as the Chapel of San Filippu, of which a few traces remain despite the erosion of the years.

Rando 22 : Boucle de Giustiniani

Rando 15 : Sentier E Spelonche

2. E Spelonche

Built on top of a hill, the villageof E Spelonche can be reached from the village of Belgodère via a circular route. The path leads through a young oak woodland and passes the ruins of the village of Quercioli, before reaching three pagliaghji – thatched huts – and some old gardens. Panoramic views of the Reginu valley accompany the climb, offering majestic scenery. After the pass, the ruinsof E Spelonche – abandoned since the 17th century – appear as if by magic, in the heart of the maquis. The site also offers unobstructed and idyllic views of the Gulf of L’Osari – Losari. On the way back, a detour takes you to the old church of San Ghjustu, one of the oldest in Balagne, now converted into a ‘pagliaghju’, of which only the apse remains.

3. Casenove

Starting from Pietralba, in the parish of Canale, this circular walk takes you to the old hamlet of Casenove. The route crosses a bridge, passes through old gardens and leads to a site with scattered stones. The Chapel of Santa Lucia, restored in the 1970s, remains the centrepiece of the hamlet and is the focus of an annual procession on 13 December. Before reaching Casenove, the trail also offers sweeping views stretching from Pietralba to Monte Cinto. Every year, in early June, the participants in the A Petralbinca trail run pass through the old hamlet, which comes to life for the occasion, before falling back into a deep slumber.

4. Occi

Situated above the village of Lumio, the ancient villageof Occi lies on a plateau at an altitude of around 377 metres and overlooks the Gulf of Calvi, offering a breathtaking view. The walk begins in the narrow streets of Lumio, crosses the Lavatoggio plateau, and then leads to Capu d’Occi, which overlooks the ruins of the abandoned village. The site retains many characteristic features, such as low stone walls, threshing areas – aghje – and narrow alleyways – carrughji – between the abandoned houses. The restored A Nunziata chapel is still used for religious services.